Chickamauga and Lookout Mountain, Part 2

It was about a seven mile drive from Lookout Mountain to the Chickamauga Battlefield. We had stopped at the Visitor Center the day before so we drove to stop number one, dialed the phone number and listened to the recorded message.

It was basically the story of the first days fight where the Confederates had been delayed by the lighten brigade allowing the Union to establish a defensive line. Stop two told of the next day’s attacks, all repulsed. The lines here were well marked with monuments to the opposing forces, including the largest monument named the Georgia Memorial.

Stop four was where disaster overtook the Union forces, when the Union General, safely far back from the fighting pulled troops from the center. He had made the mistake thinking a gap existed on the left where none existed and crated a huge gap in the center. The Confederates attacked, found the gap and split the Union Army/

When the Confederates came out of the woods by the Union Generals headquarters he mounted his horse and rode off with other generals telling his staff it was every man for himself, (he rode off to Chattanooga and made no attempt to rally his forces.

The right side of the line was held by the Lightening Brigade, a Union Mounted Infantry Brigade armed with Spenser Repeating rifles. They held off numerous attacks before being forced to withdraw and their position is dominated by their Memorial to Wilders Brigade. It’s a high tower and you can climb the stairs to the top.

As the Union forces were being routed, the only remaining Union Major General, George Thomas, pulled troops together and formed a line along the Snodgrass form.

He set up his headquarters about one hundred and fifty yards behind the lines which he established along a horse shoe shaped ridge.

There he rallied forces who then held off attack after attack allowing the retreat of the main Union forces to Chattanooga, (and he was given the name the Rock of Chickamauga).

Later he and his troops would distinguish themselves when they took the right flank of Seminary Ridge. In that Battle Sherman’s Corp had been stopped in their attack up the left flank. Thomas’s force was order to simply take the rifle pits at the bottom of the ridge but instead fought their way to the top, taking the cannons and routing Braggs Confederate Forces, (Braxton had made a mistake and put his defense on the actual crest of the ridge instead of on the military crest and so his forces couldn’t fire down on the attackers.

We have been to many of the Civil Wars major battlefields including Shiloh, Gettysburg, and Antietam. All are sites were men fought with honor and courage and all are hallowed ground. All are places people today should visit.

Perhaps then the idiots here who call for succession and the idiots in Congress would spend their time trying to heal and fix what is wrong with this country instead of simply fighting against anyone who suggests hope. These are the people who Roosevelt talked against when he said,”the only thing we have to fear is fear itself”.

Clear skies 

Lookout Mountain

I was lucky enough growing up to have lived close, six blocks, to a Carnegie library. As a small child, I remember the day when I was old enough to check out books at the adult library. Flying up the stairs I got my adult library card and decided that I would read every book on the shelves.

Of course I never had a chance but I did read every science fiction and history book I could and if I hadn’t become a science teacher my next choice would have been history.

So since we have been traveling, we have now been on the road starting our ninth year, I have tried to visit places I have taught or read about. You can probably guess why we were in Chattanooga, I wanted to visit the Chickamauga Battlefield and Lookout Mountain.

Stopping at The Chickamauga Visitor Center we were given a map, detailed directions, and told of the new phone guided tour number. It would allow us to dial a prerecorded number, enter the site number, and get a description of what we were looking for at that stop. Wow did it work great!

So the next morning we got up and hurried off to Lookout Mountain. Now the battle for Lookout Mountain took place after the Battle of Chickamauga but there was a reason for the order. From the Lookout Mountain’s Point Park one can see Moccasin Bend, Chattanooga, Seminary Ridge, and Browns Ferry.

Lookout Mountain actually fell before the final battle when the Confederates withdrew their troops and cannons, trying to shore up their defenses on Seminary Ridge. The drive up to Point Park was over narrow and winding roads that were not easily navigated by out truck, (we got there early and were able to get a parking spot behind the visitor center, and we would not have fit in a street parking spot).

Looking down we could see Browns Ferry, which Grant’s troops secured, relieving the Federals troops besieged by Braxton Bragg, (the Confederate General). Inside the visitors center is an amazingly detailed and huge painting of the Battle of Lookout Mountain.

It is so detailed that you can actually see the rings of smoke from the cannon fire and see how the up slope wind carried the smoke rings up the mountain. After studying the painting we next walked to the Peace Monument and then to each Confederate Battery.

At one of the viewpoints there were displays of signal flags and hardtack, a whole case! Time however was not on our side and so we returned to the truck and headed down the mountain to the Chickamauga Battlefield. End of part One. Clear skies

Savannah Georgia, Tybee Island Lighthouse, Tybee Beach, and Fort Pulaski

We left Winterville, North Carolina, to continue our southern trek. Our next stop was only two hundred miles down the coast at Savannah, Georgia. Now we had already visited Savannah, and while we loved the historic old town, we decided to check out the areas history by visiting the Tybee Lighthouse, Fort Screven and Tybee Beach, and Fort Pulaski National Monument.
Driving to Tybee Island took us through the city and down a beautiful oak lined street. Spanish moss draped the trees and nothing else makes you feel like being down south than being under the bearded oaks. Renita drove and while she struggled a bit with our large truck she did an admirable job and made it down the shaded avenue.

Soon we were crossing marshlands and tidal flats, much like the Louisiana coast. The main visible difference was the elevated boat docks lining the waterways. Here the tidal range is much greater, its the Atlantic Ocean after all, and as we reached Tybee island we spotted the  Lighthouse standing proud above the trees.
Renita parked the truck at the Lighthouse parking lot, one of the few places free with a light house tour ticket, It was nice to see the senior rate and as parking on the island costs two dollars an hour it was like getting to see the lighthouse for free. A volunteer described the lighthouse grounds and museum and gave us all a warm welcome to the place.

Heading to the light house we were soon climbing the one hundred and fifty plus steps, pausing at each window to enjoy each view.  It was a lot easier than hiking up Clingmans Point, and we quickly reached the top. The access to the Fresno lens was restricted but we were able to walk outside on the circular ledge surrounding the top.
Feeling somewhat acrophobic, (I prefer solid mountain tops to man made structures), I forced myself to look down the Towers side. Renita never made any comments about the height and easily walked along the outside of the narrow metal grate and handrail.

The descent was obviously much easier and after watching a short film of the history of the lighthouse we toured the First Light keepers house. The house has been refurnished with the actual furniture from the last light keeper with all the pieces being classic early twentieth century. One piece really stood out, an art deco clock and radio, and really caught our eye.

Next we headed over to Fort Screven and Tybee Beach. Some of the fort was actually sold and converted to private residences, but we were still able to tour a small museum and stand on top of the fort. .It must have been a dull existence for the men assigned to guard the mouth of the Savannah River.
Walking the beach, Renita commented on the scarcity of shells, but still managed to glean a few pieces for her ever growing collection. Still shells are kind of like rocks, you can never have enough,
and there is always room somewhere in our traveling house.

The last stop of the day was at Fort Pulaski. It was a beautiful example of the last of the brick made forts and was finished only fourteen years before the start of the civil war. Constructed with twenty five million bricks and mortar, it only lasted thirty hours against the Union's new rifled parrot guns.

The rifled Parrot guns had the ability to reach the fort and blasted holes through the thick walls. When one shell passed through the breach and  exploded setting fire to the gunpowder magazine, the Confederate commander, who had proudly stated that,  'He had been put in command to defend the fort not to surrender it!", wisely ran up a large white flag.

The Union Commander actually freed the slaves, captured with the Confederate forces, and later enlisted them into the Union forces. It was a bit of history that we had read about but standing in the fort helped us to realize the importance of that decision.
Returning to Savannah we just missed the rush hour traffic It had been a good day, as every day retired has been, and who could ask for more than a day visiting a light house and a day of history in Savannah, Georgia! Clear skies

The Sweetness of Savannah

Renita has long wanted to visit Savannah and while it wasn't on my list we were heading through Georgia and so we stopped to check it out. As usual she was way ahead of me and now its a city that we will most definitely come back and visit again.
The rv park we stayed in wasn't the greatest but it was handy and it was right off of interstate 95. We were able to get our prescriptions filled at a nearby Walmart so that is always good. We talked about taking the tour but discovered Savannah's free express shuttle and ferry service, connecting the historic downtown, River street, and the Trade Canter.
Parking at the visitor center it didn't take long before the shuttle arrived and we loaded aboard, heading for River street. It started to rain and even begin to rain hard but it stopped temporarily when we got off at the DOT shuttle stop River Street.

Now the whole street is lined with shops and I could see that I was in for it, but you never know, and it turned out I was pleasantly surprised as we quickly discovered a shop filled with local artists displays. It turns out the city is filled with galleries and shops and it was fun to be in a city with so much art on display. Renita even showed off her pendant, she was wearing a piece I made called "Red Desert at Night", and a shop owner asked us if we would sell her some of our work at wholesale! An interesting idea but something that would turn our lapidary and wire artistry into something too much like work.
It started to rain again, and this time harder, so we boarded the free ferry and cruised across and back, enjoying the view of the river front and the small but elegant city ferry. Savannah definitely has style!

Landing back on River street we checked out a few more stores before walking to Congress Street, looking for Paula Deans restaurant.
It poured harder and so we camped under an awning waiting for the shuttle. When it finally arrived the driver stopped and started again so quickly that I had to chase it waving my umbrella.Some of the other riders saw me and the driver stopped  and we loaded aboard.
The next day we got up early and arrived downtown in time to get our name on the list at The Lady and Sons Restaurant,(They start taking names at 9 am for lunch and fill quickly). It was a beautiful day and so we walked along the City Market checking out all the art galleries. There were so many and all filled with local artists work. It was a pleasure to see something different from the usual imported tourist junk from the same overseas countries,(It has been surprising to us that so many places sell the same imported items).
Lunch time arrived and we were quickly seated, ordered, and served. I had the crab cake and Renita decided on the asparagus sandwich. We even ordered a plate of fried green tomatoes, something we have never had before. It was fun to share bites from our plates. We both decided that fried collard greens were a unique and acquired taste. My crab cake was filled with blue crab and Renita's sandwich was excellent,(Did I say all the food was fried, except the rice and black beans?).
Of course I had to have the Key lime cheesecake with almond slivered crust. I could barely it it all, but I managed to finish the huge piece, savoring every bite. We really enjoyed our meal, the waitress was top notch and we even had a nice chart with the manager. Its on our list of a place to return to again.

We walked  around the historic town center filled with tree lined boulevards and beautiful squares. To see a city built for beauty and not simply a place to fill with shop after shop was a real joy. The edges of the Historic area was lined with massive churches. Of these two were open to the public and we marveled at the beauty of St John the Baptist Cathedral and The Lutheran and Presbyterian church's architecture.

The magnolias were in bloom, the massive live oak trees lined the squares, and we felt safe and secure as we strolled thought the area. It was a beautiful day in a beautiful city. We were treated to the southern charm and hospitality by everyone we met. Yes, Savannah is a place we hope to return to someday. Clear skies.