June 10, 2012: Liard Hot Springs, Our New Home till the Road
is Reopened
We had wanted to spend a day or two at the hot springs and
now it looks more like a week as the Alaska Highway is closed from major
washouts and mudslides. We were able to get a spot at Liard Hot Springs and to
that we are thankful. The staff here is full of kindness and understanding and
the Ranger at the park entrance even asked us if we have enough food, (we do).
So we have settled in here to the usual grind. Wake up at
the break of dawn, Renita even woke up this morning at 4:30 am, and take a
walk. Next we read a bit, eat lunch, and then go to the hot springs for a daily
soak. The excitement here is the periodic bangs as the rangers set off large fireworks
to adversely program the bears to stay away from the campgrounds.
As you walk to the pools on the boardwalk, you first cross shallow
ponds where a rare species of chub lives. They have adapted to the warm water,
but we are not sure how they will last with the cigarette butts which people
casually toss off the trail, (Sometimes you wish the Rangers could train the
bears to eat the litterbugs, or at least mess them up a tad bit).
Today we walked to the Hanging Gardens and enjoyed the Tufa
and cascades as the hot water tumbles down the dirty white and iron stained
calcite terraces. Ostrich ferns are one of the dominate forest floor plants and
these are interspersed with a plethora of wild flowers.
The Beta pool is closed permanently due to the discovery of
an endangered species of red snail so everyone is restricted to the Alpha pool
and that’s ok as the water is so hot that you can only stand it for about
fifteen minutes before you are in actual danger of hydrothermial!
Renita’s first attempt at the upper section of the pool
ended in a hasty retreat and most people stayed below the man made waterfall,
preferring the cooler water. I found that once you got past the hot surface
water the water underneath was a bit cooler, all though I didn’t attempt to get
closer to the up welling springs where the temperature is about 125 degrees Fahrenheit/54
Celsius.
So we soaked away another day and its ok, we aren’t going
anywhere for awhile. Talk is that the Canadian engineers may even have to put in
a Bailey bridge, wouldn’t that be a kick. The gap is over four hundred feet
long and one hundred plus feet deep as the water even took out a bridge. It’s
frustrating to be within eight hundred miles of Alaska, but it is what is is!
Clear skies
Ps The rvs are stacked at Watsons Lake and the road is also
closed at Telson, and near Klune Lake. Furthermore the Klondike highway is
closed above and below Watson Lake and Whitehorse so there is no way to go
around it. We are a bit frustrated to be in a complete dead and off the grid
but it happens.
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